I love the traditional look of art in solid hardwood frames, with the added class of linen liners. To achieve this look at an affordable price, I have to make my frames myself, from raw lumber. I chose to work with Mahogany, as its grain and iridescence is amazing, and it takes stain well to give deep, rich tones. Because I make the frames myself, I offer my photography in the highest quality frames for about the cost of the frame alone from a frame shop.
I start with rough cut, four-quarter Mahogany from a mill in Manahga, Minnesota. I cut it into lengths that work for my frame sizes, rip it into planks the width of my specific frames, and run it through a molding machine using knives I designed. While each frame is made from a single piece of wood so the pieces all have similar grain and take the stain with a similar color, any time one works with real wood, grain and color can change through a board. When I find a knot or other unusual feature in a board, I make sure that section is on a frame. This and the fact that every piece of Mahogany has its own grain, iridescence, and look, make each frame a unique piece itself.
I use a miter saw to cut the molding to the appropriate lengths, then glue the edges and put the pieces in a Merle Clamp, which holds it firmly while I get all the corners lined up. Then I use pocket-holed screws for a strong joint.
I use framers points to install my linen liners, so if sometime down the road, one needs to remove it, it can easily be done. Frame shops premanently nail the liner to the frame, so it cannot be changed without destroying it and possibly the frame.
I install the mounted canvas with framers points, then seal the back with kraft paper, install hanging wire with D-rings, and put foam bumpers near the bottom edge. While there isn’t really a reason to seal it, I like the clean look of the sealed back, and it prevents dust from collecting and having to worry about cleaning the backside. Lastly, I put on a label identifying the image and print number with my name and copyright.
Keep in mind that despite being kiln dried for consistency, solid wood rarely stays perfectly straight when cut into strips, as it ages, or with changes in humidity. The different grains within a board can be at varying moisture content over time, or react differently to changes in humidity, so frames may not always lay perfectly flat, and individual pieces may not always be perfectly straight. This is natural and a trait of all wood products made with narrow strips. Also, more intricate the grain patterns and the area around knots are most susceptible to board to flex when cut, aging, or with humidity changes.
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